After being pandemic-restricted for some good two years, I could finally go back to Brazil and visit my family in the spring of 2022. The pandemic seclusion had allowed me to dig deep into my roots and my family history. It also took me to revisit Brazilian history which, unfortunately, had been so insufficiently grasped and appreciated during my formative years. Combining the personal with the national, I decided to revisit the town where my great grandfather, Lindolpho de Assis, was born.
Tiradentes, initially known as São José del Rei, is one of the many towns that emerged with the discovery of gold by the Paulista bandeirantes who adventured in the countryside in search of precious metals and indigenous people. They reached modern-day Minas Gerais in the beginning of the XVIII century where they discovered easily accessible, substantial deposits of gold. A major gold rush happened leading to territorial disputes and a war between the Paulistas and the newcomers.
Tiradentes still preserves its original character and is considered one of the gems of Brazilian colonial architecture. Signs of the gold economy are still vividly present in the Mother Church of Saint Anthony (Igreja Matriz de Santo Antonio): some 480 kilos of gold were used to paint its exquisitely decorated interior. Faithful to my family-motivated pilgrimage, I also visited the town’s municipal chamber, which my great great grandfather had once presided, and its famous water fountain, Chafariz São José. My grandmother used to tell me that there was an old saying in Tiradentes that went as follows: “Quem for a Tiradentes, tem que visitar a matriz, o chafariz e a familia Assis.” This can be loosely translated as ‘When in Tiradents, you must visit the church (matriz), the water fountain (chafariz) and the Assis family.” I dutifully followed that advice, except that I could not visit the Assis family as it had long moved away…
But once in the region, one must visit a few of the many other charming historic towns of Minas Gerais. Thus, I went to São João del Rei, a town named to honor king John V of Portugal. Like Tiradentes, São João del Rei had its origins in the discovery of gold in the region. The town was initially created as a staging post on the Royal Road (Estrada Real), which linked Ouro Preto (former Vila Rica) and other towns in the central region of the province to the port of Paraty (Rio de Janeiro). Besides its historic and economic importance, São João del Rei is a university town and is also famous for being the birthplace of Tancredo Neves, the first president of Brazil after the military dictatorship. I was lucky enough to visit the town on a Sunday. Its normally busy city center was quiet and peaceful. Offices and stores (except for those gathering to tourists) were closed. But churches were open and busy with baptisms and mass celebrations. I felt transported back in time…
Moving forward, I headed to Congonhas to visit the famous Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Matosinhos, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Unquestionably, in my humble opinion, this is the masterpiece of Francisco Antonio Lisboa, o Aleijadinho. The Sanctuary is richly decorated by the statues of the famous Brazilian sculptor. Sixty-six wooden statues, gems of the Brazilian baroque, were carved to illustrate the Stations of the Passion and are grouped into 6 chapels located on the forecourt leading to the church. That one, built on the top of a small hill, is guarded by 12 prophets sculpted in soapstone. Overlooking the town downhill, imposing respect and circumspection, the prophets remain vigilant and protect the church…
After Congonhas, I drove to Ouro Preto, formerly Vila Rica, birthplace of one of the first revolts against the Portuguese domination. The town seats beautifully among the often gentle (but sometimes unforgiving) hills of Espinhaço Mountains. It has an impressive historic center, also classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, with numerous palaces, graceful water fountains and beautiful churches. The latter are richly decorated with gold mined from the region. Among Ouro Preto many churches, the church of Saint Francis is another masterpiece by Alejadinho. But what impressed me most was its beautiful ceiling painted by Master Ataíde: it is so ethereal, colorful, and inspiring.
It is said that some 800 tons of gold were sent to Portugal from the region. In fact, when I visited the Mafra National Palace, in Portugal, a gigantic palace-convent complex built by king John V, a sign by the ticket office indicated “this palace was built with gold from Brazil”. Between what remains in churches and in monumental architecture, what has been officially recorded and, of course, what escaped Portuguese control and was smuggled, one can only imagine the volume of gold produced by the region…
Mariana is some 30 km away from Ouro Preto and was the first town, city, and capital of Minas Gerais. As in other historic cities, the presence of the catholic church is inescapable. Several churches dot the town. Two of them, the church of Our Lady of Carmo and the church of Saint Francis, are separated by just a few feet, on the main public square, facing the pillory - that dreadful symbol and instrument of authority during colonial times.
My trajectory of historic towns took me to Salvador, Bahia, the very first capital of Brazil during the colonial times. Salvador is a trip, going well beyond its historical importance. The city is located on the All-Saints Bay and is protected by numerous forts that were not always capable of repelling invasions; the Dutch, for instance, occupied the city for one year in 1624. Salvador is also the guardian and promoter of the culture and traditions inherited from the many Africans who were forcefully brought to Brazil. Their influence is noticeable in religion, local culinary, music, arts, and most importantly, in its inhabitants. The city’s overall captivating charm is clearly black African. I never forgot what a Ghanaian colleague of mine once told me: “Ana, when in Salvador, I feel as if I were in Accra!”. Undoubtedly, the city has a unique vibrance, unparalleled by any other Brazilian town. It is a very special place.
When in Salvador, one must take the ferry and visit Itaparica, a gracious island at the entrance of the All-Saints Bay. Also, the stage of corsairs’ attacks and Dutch occupation, currently the island is a peaceful place providing visitors with beautiful vistas and relaxation.
But enough said! I am a better photographer than writer. So, check these two galleries on this website: Minas and Bahia. Yes, a picture is worth a thousand words…